Monday, July 28

At long last, we've made it to the big easy.

That is not to say this has been a long trip (although it has been) but rather that New Orleans has been on our bucket list for way too many years. So many years that we insisted our darling daughter apply to Tulane so we could attend orientation and parents' weekend in NOLA! And that is, in fact, a true story.

In our opinion the only way to start your first day in New Orleans is at Cafe Du Monde with beignets and coffee. 

They were everything we hoped they would be. We found that a single order of three beignets was perfect for two people. We were amazed at the number of tables that ordered a plate of three for everyone at the table. Given the temperature at 8:30 a.m. we both went with a version of iced coffee. It was perfect.

Next on the check list, wander the French Quarter. We toured churches and former convents, strolled streets, wandered the French Market, shopped galleries and voodoo shops and lunched on gumbo. This actually took up most of the day. We are staying here another night and have more sights to see tomorrow. But plenty of fun photos from today.

FUN FACT: One of the churches has been designated a minor basilica, second minor basilica of our trip. The first was in Santa Fe.

Blue leopard duct tape covered bike.

Gas lanterns add character

Voodoo dolls

Yard art

I needed a bathroom and walked into the not yet open Good Friend's bar and asked if they could help.  This is the key chain to their womens's room!

We dined (and I use that word in its loosest possible sense) at the Gumbo Shop.  It easily won the award for worst dinner on the entire barnstorming trip.  No contest.  If you are in NOLA, just say NO to the Gumbo Shop.  The meal was a flavorless glop-fest.

After dinner we wandered over to Frenchman Street which is just outside of the French Quarter.  It has a reputation as being a quieter area, with bars where you can actually enjoy the music instead of the just the booze.  This will be a repeat stop should we make it back to NOLA one day.  The band in the no cover charge bar we wandered into was so good, Lester bought their CD.  We didn't stay too long because we wanted to make the 10:00 show at Preservation Hall.

Now let me start by saying that I saw the Preservation Hall Jazz Band on New Year's Eve many, many years ago at the Eastman Theatre which is part of the Eastman School of Music in Rochester, NY.  It is a beautiful theater.  (FUN FACT: My HS graduation ceremony took place in the Eastman Theatre.) So, now please picture what you think Preservation Hall must look like.  They're a world famous band with their own performance space, right? Do you have a vision in mind?  Now get ready for the real thing.

We estimate the entire concert hall is about 16 feet wide by 32 feet long.  The first two rows are occupied by anyone young enough to sit cross legged on the floor.  The next four rows are essentially picnic benches.  After that, it is standing room only.  No air conditioning, just a couple of fans. Oh, and they were great.  We didn't actually see the Preservation Hall Jazz Band. That is the touring band.  We saw the Preservation Hall Jazz Masters.  Tonight Leroy Jones was

the band leader, he is widely considered the "keeper of the flame" for traditional New Orleans jazz and one of the best musicians ever produced by the city.  It was a fun and lively show.  One of the songs on their play list was What a Wonderful Life, made famous by native son Louis Armstrong. We continue to be amazed by what we see on this trip and appreciate the good fortune that has given us this opportunity.

More NOLA tomorrow, then we drive north on "the Blues Highway" to Clarksdale, MS for yet another bucket list stop, the Delta Blues Museum.  I smell a new t-shirt...

A&L